Tussar silk fabric, also known as 'Kosa silk' in Sanskrit, is valued for
its purity and texture. It is light-weight and airy, yet dressy, giving cool
comfort to the wearer. Tussah silk saris are popular for its crisp and
paper-like feel. Tussar made dresses are usually worn in marriages,
religious ceremonies and other important functions. Tussah, blended with
wool or cotton is widely used as shawls and mufflers.
Tussar silk fabric has natural shades of gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny,
creamy, etc. but it also goes well with dye. It is generally dyed with
natural dyes. Yellow is obtained from Palaas flame (tree) and Kusum flower.
The rich red hue is made from pollen dust of the Rora flower and rose red
from Lac Bugs.
Tussar silk is produced from silkworms like Antheraea mylitta, Antheraca
proylei, Antherea pernyi and Antheraca yamamai. These worms are wild and
feed on the leaves of Arjuna (Terminatra), Asan (Terminatia Tementosa), Saja
or Sal trees. The silkworms spin a single-shelled, the oval cocoon, which is
generally yellow or gray and are hard and compact. The shells of the cocoon
are fine-grained and non-flossy. The cocoons are boiled to make it soft and
the yarn is then reeled.
Centre of Tussar Silk Fabric Production
Indian tasar or tussore (also known as tropical tasar) silk originated from
Orissa. Today, Raigarh and Champa in Madhya Pradesh and Ganeshpur village in
Bhandara district of Maharashtra has become important centres in producing
tussah silk fabric. The other states contributing to the country's tussah
silk fabric production is Bihar, Jharkhand, West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh and
Uttar Pradesh. Jharkhand produces around 40% of India's tussar production.
Characteristics of Tussar Silk Fabric
- It is light and airy.
- It is delicate and stiff.
- It is coarse.
- It gives a cool comfort.
- It has different natural shades.
Uses of Tussar Silk Fabric
- Tussar silk fabric is ideal for making sarees. It is either printed,
hand-painted or embroidered into traditional designs. Brocade work is
also done with zari in the fabric to give it an ornate look. These saris
radiate natural brilliance.
- Traditionally 'Mailooga' and 'Gamchha' sarees are made with simple
designs which are worn by the Gond, Baiga and Kanwar tribals in India.
The Muria, Maria, Dhruva and Gadba tribals also weaves special dresses
from tussar for the folk dance performances.
- Tussar blended with wool, or cotton is used to make shawls and
mufflers. The fabric is also used to make beautiful dresses, jackets,
stoles and scarves.
- Tussah silk is also widely used as painting canvas.
