Shantung silk fabric originated from China as a hand loomed Chinese silk.
The name shantung has been derived from Shantung (Shandong) province of
China located in the northern part of the country on the gulf of Bo Hai and
the Huang Hai.
Shantung silk fabric, usually referred to as 'raw silk', is of
medium-weight and plain-weave. The fabric has irregular surface with rough
and nubby appearance. It has natural sheen with bright luster. It is a hand
woven and a hand dyed fabric with a textured look.
Shantung silk fabric is spun from the wild silkworm (Tussah silk) or the
silk wastes. It is similar to pongee and douppioni but the irregular
surface, heavier and rougher texture of the fabric makes it different from
them. Shantung is slightly translucent with a higher luster on its surface.
It is made of slightly heavier yarn.
Presently, shantung is made from the domesticated silk warp yarns and
heavier duponi filling yarns. The luster quality or dullness of the fabric
depends upon the filler yarn. The fabric obtained is firm and semi-crisp.
Hence, it gathers well and pleats into a full crisp.
Characteristics of Shantung Silk Fabric
- It has rough and irregular surface with slub texture and nub feel.
- It has bright luster.
- It has subtle sheen.
- It is crisp and shiny.
- It is medium-weight.
- It ravels i.e. it separate the fibers or threads.
- It is slightly off-white in color.
- It drapes well.
Uses of Shantung Silk Fabric
- Like douppioni, shantung silk fabric is mostly used as the wedding
gowns because of its slight nubby texture and natural look.
- The bright luster and crisp and shiny quality of the fabric has made
it fond for women's and children's wear. The quality of shantung fabric,
to gather well and pleat into crisp fullness has made it good for
skirts. It is also used for dresses, suits, coats and tailored pants.
- It is not recommended to make fitted garments, especially long wear,
from shantung silk fabric because of its raveling quality and slipping
at the seams (joints at the stitches).
- Shantung silk fabric is also widely used for cushions and curtains.
