Pongee is a commonly available silk fabric. It is thin, soft and
tan-colored. It is also known as China silk or Habutai (Habotai), a Japanese
word meaning ‘soft as down’. The fabric is very light, sheer and
plain-weave, mostly used as scarves. It is also used as dresses, blouses and
linings. Pongee is a traditionally summer fabric.
Pongee originated from China known as Chinese penchi which mean woven at
home. From China, it was brought to Japan via Okinawa. In Japan, it has a
history of more than 1,300 years and is known as Oshima Tsumugi. Pongee is
the top-quality silk fabric of Japan. The mud dyeing method is unique in
Oshima Pongee and has been practiced since the 7
th Century.
Pongee is either made from low quality, dirty and dupion cocoons that was
an unavoidable product of raising silkworms or from wild tussah silk or
certain other silk wastes. It is spun into a yarn and hand woven in a plain
weave. While spinning the yarn has to be twisted and joined. This creates a
small knot giving rise to nubby texture of the woven fabric.
Characteristics of Pongee Silk Fabric
- It is thin and soft.
- It has nubby texture.
- It is tan or ecru in color.
- It is medium to light-weight.
- It do not crumple easily.
- It looks better if ironed while dry.
- It is not uniformly dyed, hence printing is preferred.
Uses of Pongee Silk Fabric
- Pongee is mainly used as scarves, because of its softness and
light-weight. It is also used as dresses, ensembles, summer suits,
blouses and linings. Today, Pongee is popularly used for silk painting.
- It is not recommended to make fitted garments from Pongee as the
seams (joining place at stitches) tears from the stress.
