Mulberry silk fabric is known as the ‘pure silk’. The undyed
mulberry is very white. The fabric is the finest silk in the world. It is
very smooth, strong and soft in the texture with pearlescent shimmering
luster. Benarasi sarees, zari decorative sarees, chiffon and chinnon
scarves/stools and organza embroidered garments are few well known varieties
of mulberry silk fabric.
Mulberry silk is reared throughout Asia. Among these, China mulberry is
smooth and satiny where as Indian mulberry is softer and richer in colors
with more crinkly look. Italian silk is refined with elegant look and Thai
silk carries natural blended textures and patterns.
Process of making Mulberry Silk Fabric
Mulberry silkworm (
Bombyx mori) is the only variety among other
silk-producing insects which is widely utilized and intensively cultured. It
only feeds on the mulberry leaves. Hence the cultivation or availability of
the mulberry trees is directly correlated to the rearing of the mulberry
silkworms. Moreover the quality of the cocoon depends upon the quality of
the mulberry leaves.
- The cultivated silkworms are fed mulberry leaves at regular intervals
for 24-26 days until they are ready to spin a cocoon.
- During their growing period, the worms are protected from loud noise
and strong smell like those of the fish, the meat or sweat.
- Each silkworms or caterpillar spins a cocoon by winding around itself
hundred times with a long filament thread produced by it.
- The worms sleep inside the filament case for a fortnight, after which
it hopes to emerge as a silk moth.
- To stop the silk moth break the continuous filament, the cocoons are
put into hot water to soften the gum which holds the thread together.
- The silk thread is, then separated from the caterpillar and the
filaments are reeled or unwound.
Characteristics of Mulberry Silk Fabric
- It is very smooth and luxurious.
- It is comfortable with a good absorbent quality.
- It is very strong.
- It is not a good resistant to abrasion.
- It is not resistant to wrinkle.
- It is odorless.
- It is sensitive to harsh chemicals and oil.
- It brittles with age and exposure to sunlight. The sunlight turns
pure silk to yellow.
Varieties and Uses of Mulberry Silk Fabric
Plain Silk Fabric – A deluxe quality thin silk fabric which
ranges from 20 gm to 70 gm. Plain silk is widely used for making blouses,
fashion garments, scarves, etc.
Dupioni Silk Fabric – Dupion silk is obtained from two
silkworms spinning a single cocoon. It is mostly used for dress material,
cushion covers and home furnishing.
Charka Silk Fabric – Charka is a thicker fabric made on hand
looms. It is mainly used for the zari decorative sarees.
Chiffon Silk Fabric – A highly twisted yarn is used to produce
a thin but strong fabric on power looms. After the processing and finishing,
it becomes soft with smooth texture. Chiffons are used for various ladies
garments and scarves/ stoles.
Chinnon Silk Fabric – Like Chiffon, Chinnon is also produced
from highly twisted yarn, but it attains a soft and crimp effect after
processing and finishing. Chinnon silk fabric is also ideal for ladies
garments and scarves/stoles.
Crepe Silk Fabric– Crepe silk is made from 2-ply twisted yarn
which are woven on power loom. Mysore crepe sarees are very popular.
Organza Silk Fabric – Organza silk is a thin fabric with rough
texture produced from highly twisted yarn. It is mostly used as saree
material and for embroidered garments.
Satin Silk Fabric – Satin silk fabric is widely used for
various end uses which gives an elegant look. Banarasi satin sari is very
popular in India as well as in international market.
Tabby Silk Fabric – Tabby silk fabric is a very light weight
fabric ideal for printing. This type of silk fabric is produced in Kashmir
(India) and is widely used as printed saris, scarves, pareos, bandanas, etc.
Matka Silk Fabric – Matka silk fabric is a heavy weight silk
made from very thick yarns. This fabric is good for making suits and
jackets. It sews easily.
