It is well said, ‘all that is golden and shimmering is Muga’.
Muga silk is popularly known for its natural shimmering golden color and its
sumptuous royal, heavenly and sensual look. The fabric has the highest
tensile strength and is very durable. This is the second costliest fabric,
after Pashmina silk, in the world. It absorbs moisture better than ordinary
silk and hence it is more comfortable to wear. The fabric of Muga is stain
free and mainly is sought for the best quality of saris, used for furnishing
materials, decorative items and dress materials. It is hand washable and the
golden sheen of the fabric improves with every wash.
Centers of Muga Silk Fabric Production
Muga or Mooga is the Assamese word for the rich amber or ochre gold color
of the cocoon. The silk is produced by
Antherea assama caterpillars
and is found in the Brahmaputra Valley, mainly in Assam and neighboring
areas of Nagaland and Meghalaya, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh in India and
some adjoining places in Myanmar and Malaysia. The unusual color of muga
silk makes people to worship it as an earthly symbol of Lakshmi, the Hindu
goddess of wealth. In Assam, it is believed that muga brings good luck to
its owner.
Mooga was worn only by Ahom kings and noble families of Assam for six
hundred years. It was unknown to the outer world until 1662 when Jean Joseph
Tavernier, a French explorer, traveled through Assam. Today,
‘Mekhala
Chador’ made of Muga silk forms the common costume of the Assamese.
Process of making Muga Silk Fabric
- Muga is extracted from wild silkworms which are semi-domesticated and
raised outdoor on two trees Som (Machilus bombycina) or (soalu
Litsea polyantha.)
- The cterpillars are placed on any of these trees to feed on the
foliage. After the leaves are eaten up, they crawl down the trunk of the
tree. The keepers place them in another tree.
- When the larval period comes to an end, the caterpillars again crawls
down from the other tree in search of a suitable place to spin the
cocoons.
- This behaviour of the worms makes the keepers to collect and control
the caterpillars. The keepers place each caterpillars into a ‘jali’,
a container made of dried twigs.
- The cocoon contains a very weak peduncle, silk that anchors the
cocoon, and is golden-yellow.
- The cocoons are then boiled in a solution of soap and soda and are
reeled on.
- Muga silk filaments have less porosity and hence cannot be bleached
or dyed.
- The natural color is golden and the fabric appears as spun gold
Characteristics of Muga Silk Fabric
- It has natural golden shade.
- With every wash, the golden color and shine increases.
- It is glossy with lustrous texture.
- It is very durable.
- It is a stain free fabric.
- It can be hand washed.
- It absorbs moisture better than any other silk.
- It has the highest tensile strength amongst all other natural
fabrics.
- It can absorb UV rays up to 85.08%.
- It can regain moisture up to 30%.
Uses of Muga Silk Fabric
- Muga Silk has flexibity of blending. It is blended easily with
pashmina, cotton and other types of mulberey and non –mulberry
silks while weaving.
- Muga is the most expensive of all silk fabrics and because of its
golden luster, Muga silk is widely used for garments. In formal dresses
it is used as tie, scarf, trousers and lining for other materials. In
Indian dresses, the fabric is used for gorgeous and exotic sarees,
ghagra, salwar suits, stole and shawl.
- Designers have identified another use of muga silk fabric, as that
of Zari. Weaver now often use muga fiber instead of gold or other
metallic wire.
- The durability, stain-free and moisture absorbent quality of Muga
silk is suitable for home furnishing like bed spreads, cushion covers,
pillow covers, curtains, wall hangings, etc. The fabric is also used in
making fishing nets and rope.
