The white silk fabric as white as the cultivated silk, eri silk is obtained
from domesticated philosamia rinini silk worms that feeds on tapioca and
castor leaves. The word Eri is derived from Sanskrit word ‘eranada’
or ‘endi’ which mean castor plant. The wooly white silk is often
referred to as the Ahimsa silk or the fabric of peace as the process does
not incolve the killing of the silk moth. The silk in this case is gathered
after the moth is released. It is grown in Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Manipur, Arunachal Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. The heavy rainfall and humid atmosphere of the region suits the eri culture.
Process of Eri Silk Fabric Production
Eri silk is extracted from the wild (Vanya) silkworms which are domesticated and is reared indoors. It is a non-mulberry variety and the only silk drawn without killing the pupa or caterpillar. Eri is known as most eco-friendly amongst silk. It is reared throughout the year. It requires less land and produces a white, creamy white or reddish silk.
- The larvae, after hatching feed on castor leaves and are allowed to grow with periodical feeding.
- After the completion of 30-32 days, the larvae crawl in search of a comfortable place among the leaves to spin the cocoons.
- The eri cocoons are open-ended and the moth is allowed to emerge out of it before gathering the silk staple.
- Eri staple is not fine and is shorter in size. Due to this it cannot be reeled, hence it is spun i.e. like in other processes silk is not unwound from the cocoon but instead the fiber is spun into thread.
- It is a coarse fabric.
- It is fine and dense.
- It is strong.
- It absorbs moisture.
- It is durable.
- It has good elasticity.
- It wrinkles less.
- It drapes well.
- It is soft, dull and wool like finish.
- Eri silk is heavier and darker than other silks.
- Eri silk blends well with cotton, wool, jute and other silk.
- It has thermal property. Thick woven texture can be used as woolen fabric.
- Eri silk fabric is a boon for those who practice absolute non violence and do not use any product any product obtained by killing any living creature. Eri silk is also said to be poor person’s silk as it is not so enormously priced as other silk types. It is widely used by everyone in the regions it is produced. Now it is getting popular the world over.
- Eri silk can easily blend with wool, cotton, other silk fibers, jute, ramie or even the synthetic fibers while weaving. Due to this quality, a large number of eri blend fabrics can be produced.
- In India, Eri is mostly used for the preparation of chaddars (wraps). The thermal property of Eri silk makes it a suitable fabric for shawls, jackets and blankets. Dress materials and baby dresses are also made from eri silk fabric because of its soft texture and moisture absorbent quality.
- Eri silk is durable and strong and has a typical texture, hence it is widely used in home furnishing like curtains, bed covers, cushion covers, wall hangings, quilt, etc. The wooly feel adds to the comfort.
