Dupioni silk (Shantung silk) is a light to medium weight elegant and classy
fabric known for its nubby texture and shiny streaks. Bridal gown and
evening wear is the preferred dress of this fabric because of its lustrous
sheen and relatively low cost. Loose fitting blouses, jackets, suits,
skirts, draperies made of Dupioni are also widely used.Douppioni silk is elegant, versatile, gives a slightly stiff feel and is easily identified by the ‘slubs’ on it. ‘Slubs’ are lumpy horizontal lines within the weave. Shot colors, use of two different colored threads in weaving, go well with dupioni silk. This blending gives a different shade to the fabric in light.
Dupioni silk is generally hand woven and is dyed with the vegetable dyes. Weaving leaves a mark or minor irregularities on the fabric. Since the fabric shrinks, washing before tailoring is necessary. All dupioni silk is hand washed except pre-made or lined dupioni garments. Hand-wash softens the fabric and removes stiffness from it. Machine wash looses the sheen of the fabric.
Process of making Dupioni Silk Fabric
The word Dupioni has been derived from Italian word doppio which mean ‘double’. The worms are raised in a conjusted place so that two worms spin a single cocoon. The cocoons are put into hot air or steam to stop the silk moth break the continuous filament and also to soften the gum which holds the thread together. The filament produced are slightly tangled (interlocked), rough, uneven and weak. It is reeled from the cocoon which can be a kilometer long. Dupioni silk is easily dyed, so fabrics are often brightly colored. Italian Dupioni is the finest amongst silk followed by Chinese and Indian.
The yarn produced by the twin silkworm has minute variations in the thickness. No two pieces of the silk are alike. Sometimes black specks or streaks also appear in Dupioni silk fabric. This is a part of the original cocoon. Removing these specks or streaks weakens the fabric and also destroys the beauty and character of the fiber. Hence it is left in its natural form.
Characteristics of Dupioni Silk Fabric
- It is lightweight, shimmering and soft.
- It has dull luster with shiny streaks.
- It is of nubby texture.
- It holds crease well. It does not wrinkle.
- It is crisp to touch. Pin leaves mark on it.
- It has lumpy horizontal lines within the weave which is also known as ‘slubs’.
- Hand-washed softens and removes stiffness of the fabric.
- Its weave contains minor irregularities.
- It is easy to cut and sew.
- It holds beading and embroidery well.
- It loses much of its stiffness and a bit of its sheen when washed.
- It shrinks 12 – 15% or 5 inches (13 cm) per yard when washed. It is suggested to wash the cloth before tailoring it.
- Dupioni silk fabric is mostly used for loose fitting garments. Tight fitting is avoided because the fabric pulls apart due to the weave. It is popular for bridal gowns, christening gowns and evening wear fabric for its lustrous sheen, gorgeous texture, lightweight and soft feel. Other apparel made of dupioni silk are blouses, jackets, suits, skirts, tops, etc.
- Dupion silk is not very expensive and has both strength and durability, hence it is widely used in home furnishing like lightweight draperies. Since the fabric could hold beading and embroidery well, it has added features to silk made home furnishing.
