By:
Fibre2fashion
Introduction
September 22, 2010 - In recent years the usage of natural dyes and colors
for fabric dyeing has witnessed its revival due to hazardous experience
due to effects of synthetic dyes and chemicals. The natural dyes are
eco-friendly, harmless and non-toxic in nature. Also, the usage of
renewable sources of energy in textile and apparel industry has been
increased due to many advantages associated with it. Solar energy usage
for dyeing purpose is a cost effective method. In hot countries like
India, the sun shines bright for 60% of the day, using solar energy to dye
silk fabric with turmeric dye is cheap and eco-friendly method.
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Things required
There are certain things required in order to dye the silk with turmeric
dye which are listed as follows- turmeric plant stems, raw silk fabric
yarn, diluted nitric & acetic acid and mordants like alum &
stannous chloride.
Before applying the dye to the fabric the process of removing sericin from
silk is done. Here the silk fabric is first treated with ezee kept in it
for approximately one hour then washed and dried. This whole process is
known as degumming.
Enhancing of dyeing parameters
To dye the silk fabric with turmeric dyes certain procedures are to be
followed. The dye dilution, the time taken for its extraction, time for
dyeing, amount of mordant used and mordanting process are to be taken care
of to result into turmeric dyed silk fabrics which is evenly dyed with no
color patches or differences in shade.
Not only yellow color is produced through dyeing with turmeric dyeing but
also many other colors are produced when turmeric dye is mixed with other
colors, like - orange, green, blue color with addition of indigo and red
color with addition of safflowers and mango rind.
You might think how both red and yellow colors are produced through
turmeric dye in its original form, the answer lies in the type of liquid
used for concentration. When the solution is prepared in acidic liquid it
would produce yellow dye and when alkali liquid is used it would produce
red dye.
Time for dye extraction:
In order to extract the dye, aqueous mode is utilized. The dye is examined
for its evenness and color shade by quality control supervisors before
applying to the fabric. The turmeric powder is which is one gram is
diluted with 100 ml of water. Four such solutions are prepared. Each one
is boiled for four different time period i.e. 20, 40, 60 and 80 minutes in
a solar cooker.
Time taken for dyeing:
The optimum dye solution is utilized to standardize the dye concentration.
The dyes undergo the procedure of absorption in the solar cooker time
ranging from 30-180 minutes. The absorption power of the
silk fabric determines the dyeing time
Concentration of acid:
The two acids used for dilution are acetic and nitric acid. From each of
diluted acid, 20 ml is mixed into the dye bath. The dyes are examined for
their absorption power. This examination is done visually.
Mordants usage:
The mordants discussed earlier Alum and Stannous chloride are used here.
The process of dyeing and mordanting are done together. Both these
mordants are mixed with water which results into optimized mordants.
Procedure for mordanting:
There are two methods in mordanting premordanting and postmordanting. The
pre-requisite of this process is to keep other things like dyeing time,
acid concentration, etc. steady. By looking at the dyes the method of
mordanting i.e. pre or postmordanting to be used is decided.
They are also categorized by the generations as they were produced in the
different years and known as first generation, second generation, third
generation or fourth generation fibres. This is given in the below chart:
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Turmeric
Dyeing of Silk Fabric